Modifications to the Basic Formations Conversion Kit - Modeling "Derby"

There are a bewildering number of identifiers and fittings that delineate major variants of the M4 Medium Tank. So many, as often said, that a modeler could spend the better part of a lifetime, perhaps, and not model them all. In building the Formations Models kit, I wanted something that represented the time period of World War that interests me most - the Normandy Invasion. I came across photos of two sides of "Derby" and a color drawing of another in Concord Publications reference books and settled on modeling this tank for my collection. The huge chrome yellow US invasion letters and codes just strike my fancy!

In examining the photos I had, it appeared the Formations Models M4A1 Conversion would be well suited as a base to model "Derby" as it appeared in the Normandy Invasion with some minor details additions particular to this tank as shown in the two photos. Another attractive feature in modeling "Derby" lies in that it displays a simple camouflage pattern - shown as Olive Drab and Earth Brown in color drawing plates. Recently, noted modeler and US AFV historian Steven Zaloga has revised earlier thoughts on the OD/Brown combination and favors an OD/Black combo now. Thusly, I thought that most interesting and opted to go with this scheme.

The Formations Models conversion is designed to as much as possible eliminate the need for photoetched detail parts. In my estimation, Formations did an admirable job. Aftermarket parts fans of the M4 Medium Tank would likely add first are photoetched Headlight and Periscope Guards - more so in this case because they are not included in the Formations. With many to choose from, I used Periscope Guards from the extensive Aber photoetch detail set. I recommend you cut them away and quickly put this set away from view as it can easily tempt you to "go to town" detailing your M4 Medium Tank miniature - cutting away things that just don't need to be discarded. A bit of AMS creeped in and I had to add Hatch Springs made from coiling a length of .015" solder around a brass rod. They are a nice detail touch and easy to make yourself. Calming my self down, I trimmed away and thinned the basic Italeri parts to use for Headlight and Taillight Guards because I liked the way they look better than the Aber photoetch - not so dainty.

"Derby", lastly, had two field applied "towel bars" welded on each side of the Turret to stow kitbags and sacks. I modeled these with lengths of .030" solder, super glued in place and welds made with texture gel medium.

In the photos, it appears that "Derby" had solid Idler Wheels fitted. I replaced the open-spoked Italeri parts with items from Tamiya's M4 Sherman kit #35190. They fit well on the Italeri plugs, but are a little loose. I'd also wind up using the poly-vinyl tracks from the Tamiya kit too - and they actually held the Idler Wheels in place nicely.

"Derby" - Painting & Markings

To ensure paint coverage during joining of sub-assemblies in this project, I painted as I progressed. This only calls for a little pre-planning and good choice in bonding agents as you move through the modeling project. I opt to go with 5-minute epoxy as much as the traditional super glue method to bond dissimilar materials like photoetch to plastic/resin, or resin to plastic. The differentiate between the two being strength and speed of the bond called for. The pre-painting (priming) also helps to catch air bubbles in the resin parts before you get too far along in the assembly process to comfortably address these flaws.

My base & primer coat is my traditional Tamiya acrylic XF-1 Flat Black. My Olive Drab color coats were Polly Scale acrylic #505224 USAAF Olive Drab. I wanted to create a "browner" tone in my Olive Drab this time around. I liked the result in the end. Lately, I'm finding myself switching brands to Polly Scale and Vallejo in place of Tamiya acrylics. Tamiya's paint formula provides some unpleasant experiences when applied by paintbrush - where Vallejo acrylics are wonderful to use. Polly Scale Acrylics are as easy to airbrush as Tamiya's, and the color range is more extensive. I used Tamiya acrylic XF-69 NATO Black for the second camo color in my scheme, as it nicely replicates a "scale" black that is lighter in depth and tone than my Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black base/primer coat that provides deep shadow.

I began with painting the interior of the Hull halves and Turret with XF-1 Flat Black even though the interior won't be visible in the end. I then closed up the Hull halves, puttied and smoothed the gaps all around, and painted the underside. I also painted the Bogie Trucks separately to make sure all the intricate detail cast in resin would be covered by paint. When the underside and Bogie Trucks dried completely I then joined them together and airbrushed the joints. I used the Olive Drab color for all the underside areas of the model.

Next in painting were the Road Wheels/Arm units. Left separately, these were far easier to paint - and I could rotate the Wheels to get even coverage and paint the Rubber Tires without having to handle the model and risk damage. I did not have to attach the Road Wheels/Arms to the Bogie Trucks until late in the end assembly.

With the Hull and Bogie Trucks mated, I then quickly attached the small fittings to the Upper Hull - again - left off to alleviate the risk of damage while I was test fitting, joining, and putty/sanding the Hull halves. I slipped the Road Wheels/Arms into place for a quick alignment check. Satisfied that nothing was amiss and everything had been primed, I moved on with the rest of the texturing.

I made liberal use of Liquitex's Acrylic Texture Gel Medium to replicate caked mud and dirt on portions of the hull where earth would be spattered by the track motion. In the photographs of "Derby", the tank appears to be in very good condition at that stage of the Normandy Invasion. I wanted to model "Derby" as close to this condition shown in the photos as I could - which meant not going overboard on the mud, rust, and voguish paint wear and chipping so popular right now in armor modeling.

Applying the texture gel medium at this stage only meant I'd have to paint these areas like any other during the airbrush process. Not difficult at all. I let the acrylic gel medium setup overnight before painting over it.

I applied markings for "Derby" from various sources. "DERBY" and the tank's registration number were done with Eduard's 4" photoetched stencils and airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic XF-2 Flat White. Using the photoetched stencils for the first time proved easy enough - but I recommend you keep a scrap piece of cardboard on-hand to practice a little with. I used small slivers of tape to mask the edges between the numbers too to prevent overspray. I thought about trimming the stencils closer but that proved not to give me enough room to tape off the edges between them and control overspray.

In the large photo above, I've applied a bridge plate marking from Microscale Sheet #13-11 US Armor Codes and Insignia. Over this area, I then transferred M4A1 D-Day Shipping Stenciling from Archer Fine Transfer Sheet #35006. The protective overspray is so thin that the decal proved easy to settle into place and eventually overcoat with Future to blend in the film.

Archer Sheet #35049 2nd and 3rd Armored Division Large Codes replaced the set of codes lost from attempting to use the Verlinden examples. In the large photo the marking appear to be applied a bit askew - but that is an illusion created by me not setting the Turret tightly into the Turret Race on the upper hull.

Fellow modeler, Formations Models fan, and Armorama.com brother Rick Craig sent me the old Verlinden dry-transfer set for "Derby" that's been out of production for some time. As with old Verlinden dry-transfers, these markings sadly disintegrated when I attempted to affix them to clear decal sheet for applying "wet-style". All except the little doll in her highchair and the mysterious "I WANT YOU". This was a stroke of luck! I was able to transfer it to clear decal film, overspray it (which becomes your carrier), and finally apply it like a water-slide decal.

I overcoated portions of the model with Future Floor Finish acrylic gloss to eliminate decal silvering prior to applying the markings.

In the above photo, I used dry-transfers from the old Pre-Size 4" Depot Markings set - again applied "wet-style". I used Micro Set and Micro Sol carefully to get these decals to settle down over the raised casting markings cast into the Formations Model parts. Since I knew "Derby" had been repainted prior to the Normandy Invasion, but couldn't see the codes clearly in the photos I had, I opted to match the size with the airbrushed vehicle nickname and registration numbers.

Lastly, the "A" marking on the top of the Mantlet comes from Verlinden #252 USAF Lettering. It is visible in the head-on photo of "Derby" - hand-painted. I settled on "A" although it could easily be "R" too. This appears to be a marshaling marking when the vehicles were staged in England prior to the Invasion. I referenced a photo in Time-Life books coverage of the D-Day Invasion.

Though not decaled, weathering parts of the model came in different steps. Here, I muddied up the texture gel inside the Drive Sprockets prior to mounting them on the model. Not easily seen in the completed model, unless the viewer gets down in there to see, this is an easy and fun detail to add to your miniature tank models. It adds welcome depth to your model and helps to convey a subtle sense of presence amongst a sea of Olive Drab painted models on a display table.