It didn't appear to me that 2nd Armored Division tanks at this time displayed the National Insignia anywhere other than the top of the turret and engine deck. I used Trakz vinyl stencils to airbrush these markings with Tamiya XF-2 Flat White. I suspect the engine deck star might even have been larger on the real "Derby" (the 60-inch National Insignia) but I couldn't see this detail in the photos I referenced. Additionally, the engine deck will be covered with that makeshift wooden platform the crew used to carry stowage, so the Insignia won't be seen in the end assembly.

This is why I like to model US vehicles at this time period early in the Normandy Invasion - I think "Derby" looks really interesting in these markings.

The replacement Tamiya Idler Wheels are in place at this stage, and I've mounted the Tamiya poly-vinyl track runs here as well.

The tracks were simply primed in Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. Then the end connectors were oversprayed with a 80% diluted mixture of Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown for replicating dark rust. I handpainted the rubber track pads on both sides with Vallejo #994 Dark Grey - though Polly Scale Scale Black would suffice.

I then dry-brushed Windsor & Newton Silver oil paint over the end connectors, heavier than I normally would. I let the track runs sit overnight to dry before attaching them to the model. I would then go back and overspray the lower hull and area with another application of Polly Scale Dirt to blend them with the rest of the miniature. The end connectors would be toned-down during the blending process.

Bothering me a little, the left flank of "Derby" appears a bit uninteresting as compared to the right side. I don't have photos of this side and wondered if the doll and highchair were painted here as well...

I dulled the paint finish on "Derby" with Polly Scale Clear Flat. This is a good product - quickly replacing the old lacquer-based mediums I've used in the past. It appears milky in the bottle, but dries out nice, smooth, and flat in the end.

The dulling process also brought a couple of air bubbles underneath the decals to address - unavoidable with the deep textures of the Formations Models parts.

Upper most and lower most photos - a quick pin-prick with a needle and fill with a drop of Future Floor Finish to get in behind the decal was enough to address this small problem. I was free to move on to other parts of "Derby" while the repair setup. These are the dark shiny spots in the photos before dulling back down.

The Polly Scale Clear Flat is a matte finish, but a very subtle sheen remains with the Future Floor Finish undercoat to keep the overall effect from being "dead". The contours and highpoints still catch light realistically without the aid of the artificial dry-brushing technique.

To seal and completely cover the decals I placed on "Derby" took eight mistings with Future Floor Finish. I used Future because the carrier film created with the decal clear overspray is very thin. Future is ideal for this task, and covers without obscuring the fine detail present in Formations' castings. However, in using Future for this task, you must be patient. I sprayed "Derby" over the span of four days to let the Future setup properly between mistings. If you rush it - you could build up the Future excessively and ruin a fine finish.

At this stage, basic construction and the modifications for "Derby" are basically finished. I then quickly moved into modeling the on-vehicle equipment and rear deck features that help make "Derby" even more unique than its markings. The basic Formations Models conversion set is very well detailed, easy to construct and mate with the venerable Italeri M4A1 model kit, and kept me pleased and entertained throughout. I don't think you could ask for a better result. Completing the miniature of Derby called for a few pieces of gear and rolls made from tissue.