The left-side track run in place in the above photos. It took me quite a long time to clean-up and assemble AFV Club's track-links - several hours just for this run alone. I have mixed feeling about them, but am happy with the end result. In building my Tamiya Pershing, I noted that the road wheels do not have a positive, tight, lock on the suspension arms. This is the first time I encountered such a sloppy fit in a Tamiya model, and since no one else has mentioned this in a review (that I've read to date) I thought I somehow didn't assemble them properly. That would be hard - as there's only a polycap to trap between the two wheels.

This problem in my model kit lead me to undertake the following in attaching the tracks to my miniature:

First - I assembled the track run (83 AFV Club track-links per side even though the box says 82 per run) and wrapped a section around the Drive Sprocket.

Second - I attached the outer wheels for the Return Rollers.

Third - I mounted the Idler Wheel, and then all the Road Wheels into place. The tracks themselves helped to set the alignment of the loose-fitting wheels. The way AFV Club's track links assemble, 82 per side was just too tight. One more link provided realistic tension - and kept the Road Wheels in place while the glue set. The end connectors remain remarkably "wiggly" - even when set into place with glue. I'd straighten these out in the end assembly and not stress myself out trying to do so for every in-progress photograph.

The tracks are painted with a base coat of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. I then wanted to paint a representation of the rubber swath often left on the steel track shoes during use. I secured the entire run to a piece of cardboard and masked off the two wheel swaths with Scotch Plastic Tape #06404. This is a low-tack tape that's excellent for masking duties, even over compound curves. The tape is 1/8 inches wide - just right for application here on my model. After weathering, dusting, and a DullCote - this detail will enhance the appearance of the model overall.

The steel color is a mixture of 90% Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey and 10% Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black - cut 50-60% by Lacquer Thinner. The red on the main end connector is thinned Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red, added for a little visual interest.

I temporarily attached the Skirts after finishing up the track runs to see what the model tank would look like in the end. At first a little curious about the spacing between the first and second road wheels on the right side of the model - consulting photos of the Pershings made me feel better. It is an accurate feature of the actual vehicle - kudos to Tamiya.

Next, I moved into placing the markings on my miniature before anymore weathering and detailing would take place. It appears in historical photos of the M45 Pershing in Korea that they bore little in the way of markings - from what you can see of them. I welcomed this, as it allowed me to move swiftly in placing them on my model tank.

Using the color plate in Squadron Signal's reference book, I marked my model of "HELEN" accordingly. To begin the process, I hand-painted on a light coat of acrylic Future Floor Finish to the areas of my model that would receive dry-transfers. With the cast texture already present on Tamiya's Hull, the MB Models resin Turret, and what I enhanced, the undercoat of Future would give a good surface for the dry-transfers to "hold" onto during the application process. I went with 4" non-stenciled letters and codes - taken from Railroad Scenics' white gothic letter sheet #DT-507. I used 10" National Symbols from Archer Fine Transfers' sheet #AR35021 - as these appeared about right for the markings in the photos I used. Invariably, applying dry-transfers sometimes isn't easy. I place my model on a plastic turntable to spin it around easily during the painting and finishing stages. It makes it easier to keep my hands off of it, but won't prevent the occasional dry-transfer "break" if not burnished down completely. I touched up any little problems with Tamiya XF-2 Flat White. When done, I went back and applied another light coat of Future Floor Finish to seal the dry-transfers in place and protect them from subsequent finishing stages on my model.

Not having an overhead nor rear view of "HELEN", or any other M45 Pershing, that I could make out locations for adding codes, I made a guess based on photos of all the locations other Pershing units marked their vehicles.

I used a smaller sized set of lettering from Railroad Scenics #DT-575 set of dry-transfers to complete "HELEN" and the Registration Numbers on the sides of the Sponson Boxes. Always save scrap decal sheets. The lettering and numbers are too small for me to comfortably apply free-hand to the sides of the Sponson Boxes like I did the codes on the front and rear of the model. So, I applied them to an open section of scrap decal paper. I lightly over-coated them with MicroMark #82276 "Last Step" Inkjet Decal Spray Fixative. In the past, I've used Gloss Cote lacquers - but, one burst too heavy - and the lacquer coat will disintegrate the fragile dry-transfers. You only want the lacquer coat or fixative to form a thin carrier film over the dry-transfers, allowing you to apply them to the model like a traditional waterslide decal. These went on without a problem.

That wrapped up the markings I wanted to add to my model miniature - and since I took my time it came inside of three hours - with lots of leisurely surfing on the Internet while waiting for the Future Floor Finish to dry sufficiently to move on. I tried to keep the lettering and numbers as straight as I could - but didn't try to make them ram-rod perfect. Looking at the photos, it seems neither did the crews.

With the decals set and protected in place, I would then proceed to lightly Gloss Cote the model overall to even up the finish after the decaling and applications of Future Floor Finish. I let the Gloss Cote dry overnight, and then I Dull Cote the model to set the stage for end assembly and final weathering - next page.