Attending the 2004 IPMS/USA National Convention in Phoenix, I admit not having much interest in the Vending Room until I thought I might run into Rob Ervin from Formations Models. In a short period of time, I found Formations' booth and proceeded to purchase several resin conversion and detail sets without hesitation. Formations' products are what finally hooked me on the US M4 Medium Tank.

These are high-quality and wonderfully detailed parts that strike an excellent balance between exacting fidelity to details found on the full-sized prototype and desire to make these fit within the parameters of popular 1:35th scale model kits on the market. It is difficult to produce parts that both fit kits with existing dimensional challenges and still make them accurate. Compromises are often called for, and many modelers voice up when the parts fall short of expectations. Formations Models' delivers in this area with fit and detail going hand-in-hand.

This conversion set is actually a bundle of separately available sub-assemblies designed to both dress up and backdate the venerable Italeri model kit to an earlier variant of the M4A1 75mm dry stowage medium tank that saw service early in the Italian Campaign and featured in early Pacific tank battles. One of Italeri's all-time best models, the M4A1 Sherman #225 remains popular amongst fans of US Allied WW II AFV's, and likely will for the foreseeable future. This conversion can also be used with Italeri's Marine Sherman (Kit #6389) and other Italeri Sherman based kits. Formations Models doesn't recommend using Italeri's M7 Priest as a donor for this conversion set, however.

The castings and moldings in the Formations conversion are clean, free from warpage, and call for a modicum of cleanup in the example I purchased. There were three tiny air bubbles and no short-casts present in any of my parts, and separation points from the pour gates proved easy enough for experienced resin modelers to handle. Though many modelers intimately familiar with the US M4 Medium Tank will eschew the Formations assembly instructions, I opted to follow them and not get too far ahead of myself. The instructions proved easy to understand. I say this because this is only the second Sherman kit I've built and I don't consider myself an "expert" on the subject matter by any stretch of the imagination. If I can get it - then I figure you can too!

To construct this conversion and the accompanying Italeri model parts (surprisingly few I might add - this is an extensive conversion) I only used a handful of tools. I also purchased a kit of Apoxie Sculpt from CRM Models while at the IPMS/USA National Convention because I've read good things about this product. I also made good use of Liquetex's High-Viscosity Acrylic light modeling paste. This texture gel medium came in handy for both replicating small welds and light texture after fitting parts to the upper hull and for mimicking mud and dirt buildup underneath the sponsons and between the Bogie Trucks on the lower hull. If you've never used texture gel mediums before I highly recommend you give them a try.

Lastly, not all the parts provided in this conversion set ultimately are used in the modeling effort - providing food for the spare parts bin. Keep feeding your spare parts bin and it will always take care of you.

For references, I turned to Ampersand's Modelers' Guide to the Sherman, R.P. Hunnicutt's Sherman reference book, and the set of Squadron Signal and Concord books covering the Sherman. I have them all, but admit it really helps to keep focus by only selecting a couple. It is easy to get distracted in the diverse world of the US M4 Medium Tank.

Formations M4 Low Bustle Turret Sub-assembly

Formations Models M4A1 Hull with Applique Armor

Moving on to the Hull, I began by cleaning up all the odd bumps, sinkholes, and associated remnants of the Italeri manufacturing process. Each kit will vary in cleanup called for, but remember that this is an oldie - but a goodie. I fitted the Braces (Parts #L3 and L4) into place underneath the leading edges of the sponsons as called out in Formations' instruction sheet. I worked on the Tom Cable and set it aside as well.

In cleaning up the resin Upper Hull, I scored around the Engine and Turret opening with the sharp X-Acto Blade a few times - then punched through the center of the thinner resin flash with the blunt end of my X-Acto Knife. I braced the Upper Hull piece on my workbench before doing this. It worked like a charm - though sounding unorthodox. The remaining cleanup for the Upper Hull was easy and quick. I also sanded the bottom of the Upper Hull with sandpaper attached to a glass board for good measure - though my casting was clean and air bubble free.

In test fitting to the Italeri Lower Hull pan, I opened up the flashed-over notches in the nose of the Formations Upper Hull piece for a better fit. Skipping ahead in the assembly sequence, I attached the Sponson Plates (Italeri Parts #A17 & A18) to the Lower Hull Pan. I wanted to test-fit the joining of the two Hull halves quickly. You will have to trim back the Italeri plates a little to fit the Formations Upper Hull properly. Just work slowly and trim back a little at a time until you set the two pieces together properly. I used a Miter Cutting (Chopper) tool to trim back the Italeri parts until they fit. I glued them into place with Model Master Liquid Cement and then joined the two Hull halves so that the parts could setup in place overnight. The next day I would address the joint with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Dissolved Putty and subsequently sand the joint clean. Letting the Hull halves setup overnight is a good opportunity to cleanup the rest of the small Hull fittings. In resin, this proved considerably less of a time-intensive chore than it would have been for the corresponding plastic Italeri parts.

The next day, I proceed to trim away the flash at the rear of the Formations Upper Hull covering the characteristic "notch" present on the actual Hull casting. I went to fit the solid resin Transmission Cover and Engine Deck pieces quickly afterwards. The Formations Models instruction booklet doesn't cover fitting these parts, but I found this task virtually a no-brainer - they just slide into place. Test fitting revealed that indeed a small amount of putty is called for at the joint between the Upper Hull and Transmission Cover - as mentioned in the Formations instruction sheet. For this, I found the Apoxie Sculpt ideal to work with.

Joining the Hull halves was uneventful the following day. The 5-minute epoxy went on first for strength and some gap filling around the sponson joints - leaving little to fill in the end. This proved to be a plus. Next, I applied the Apoxie Sculpt as a filler to eliminate the left over seams between the Italeri and formations Models Hull halves. I found the Apoxie Sculpt the best 2-part putty I've work with in modeling to date. It is simple to work with, soft and won't cramp your fingers like Milliput can while mixing and working. Wearing gloves is optional - and I tested that with this model. I worked it with no skin irritation and kept a little water on hand to prevent it from sticking to my palms and fingers. I only used a pinch of each tin and rolled them together. Apoxie Sculpt gives you from 1 to 3 hours working time - but I puttied the joint between the Transmission Cover and the Upper Hull as well as both sides underneath the sponsons in about 15 minutes.