Steps Six & Seven: For some of the fixtures on the upper Hull, Dragon Models provides options in plastic and photoetch. Pretty difficult to suit various modeler's tastes, Dragon Models deserves commendation for attempting to do so. Selecting either medium will give good results, so neither is better than the other. The plastic parts cab be a bit thick for the scale, and the photoetch conversely too thin, for effect - but it is there for the modeler to choose. Though no interior or engine compartment is included, Dragon Models gives the modeler separate engine panels if they want to take their kit to another level.

Dragon Models gives you Armored Fuel Caps that can be positioned opened - but the Fuel Fillers themselves are molded closed, interestingly. Naturally, nothing stops the enterprising scale modeler. In modeling the M4A1(76)W, pay careful attention to the engine deck arrangement. The tank I am modeling does not have the two Fuel Fillers on either side of the Engine Air Intake as molded in the Dragon Models kit. However, this detail is easy to trim away and fill smooth. The Fire Extinguisher Handle Housing is blank on the underside, and can be blanked off at this point. You could take the time to fashion your own Handle details to go inside this tiny space before doing so.

Though generally happy with the kit overall, I was less enthused about the quality of the fit between upper and lower hulls. The turret halves went together a bit better - but would still call for putty work and contemplation on just how to do it without radically altering Dragon Models' casting texture present. Counting on its characteristic shrinkage, I turned to Squadron Green Putty, and it worked in this instance.

Dragon Models' Driver and Co-Driver Hatches are not detailed on the insides, calling for some extra effort if you want to display them open. My project didn't call for that, so I left them alone. Otherwise, I left the details they provided intact except for little things like drilling out the Hatch Lock bar. I also preferred their plastic Periscope Guards as opposed to the photoetch replacements - as these don't capture the look and heft of the real items. Careful thinning and cleanup is the only thing called for in using the plastic parts.

Simply overwhelmed (in a good way) by all the sprue trees included in this kit, I could not find the Travel Lock Latch (Part A59) while building the kit. I fashioned my own out of scrap styrene. Murphy's Law came into play later, and I spotted the little bugger on a sprue tree after I was done, and about to throw away because I thought it was empty.

I fashioned a cable for the Horn with a simple length of solder, made Headlight Plugs out of styrene scrap, two Verlinden resin bolts and small lengths of Aber photoetch chain. Dragon Models included an interesting set of clear Headlights, and though intrigued by them, I opted for a pre-drilled set of Italeri parts that I could insert MV Products (#L116) Lenses. I wanted to experiment and save the Dragon Models goodies for a future project or two...

I attached the rear Fenders (Parts H16 & H17) to my model, though not called out on the Instruction Sheet, after cleaning up all the putty work on the joint between upper and lower hulls. Then, I went on to adding the smaller fixtures to the Hull.

The suggested front Fenders (Parts H14 & H15) do not look like the right equipment for the Sherman I wanted to model, but I decided to attach them to the Hull and then modify them in place. It was actually easier than it sounds. Dragon Models Parts #A01 and #A02 are extras in the kit, and comparable to the parts in the Italeri model kit - and usable if you are not inclined to rework the other Fender set.

In Step Seven, you have the option for using Part #H3 or #K1 to mate with the Engine Air Intake Panel (Part H2). I went with Part #K1 because it has the accurate Oil Filler Cap detail, and replaced the molded-in Handles with .010-inch brass wire. I also removed the molded-in Armored Fuel Filler Caps on this part, to either side of the Air Intake, repaired the resulting holes with putty and scrap plastic, and restored the bolt details obliterated in the surgery process. I tossed in some bolt heads for this hinges of Part #H4 (Armored Intake Cover) while I was at it.

I found it curious that though Dragon Models provided separate Armored Fuel Caps for the kit, there were not corresponding pins and chains included - common items for Sherman modelers to add to their projects. There are parts to add to the Cal.50 Machine Gun and Mount, however. It is a nicely detailed subassembly.

The Spare Track Link Racks (Parts K2 and K3) benefit from the addition of a Wing Nut to the upper edges, I used Grandt Line parts for this detail. Initially, I wanted to use Aber photoetch parts, but they proved frustratingly challenging to set into place properly. Give me good old plastic any day...

Steps Eight, Nine, Ten and Wrapping it all up: I didn't totally put the Aber Sherman detail set away - it provided tie-downs for the Storage Rack and Pioneer Tools. I would rather have had more photoetch parts like these provided in the Dragon Models kit rather than the 76mm brass rounds. I went ahead and drilled a hole in the upper rear of the Hull for the Engine Starter Crank Rod (Part A39) too, though this will be all but hidden in the end by the Storage Rack. I did this because I might decide at the last minute to not use a detail or feature, and didn't want to neglect putting it there. Same goes for the discipline in cleaning up ejector pin marks and sinkholes on parts - even when you think they won't be seen. No one wants a surprise in the end, in a place you can't reach...

I welcomed Dragon Models' inclusion of an aluminum Gun Barrel in this kit release. No further mention of the comparable Italeri kit part needs to be said. Dragon Models also gives the modeler a plastic Gun Barrel too, though I felt once cleaned up and fitted it fell a little short of the posted length in the Technical Manual covering the M4A1(76). The Mantlet is also an improved part in this kit release, correcting prior issues by relocating the Lift Rings to the upper corners and centering the cutout for the Trunnion. I added two punched disc details to dress up the otherwise plainly presented Trunnions in the model kit.

I also noted appreciatively that Dragon Models' Mantlet has a wider opening for the Gun Barrel to pass through, so that it does not fit flush, accurately. There should be a small gap between the collar and the Gun Barrel. In my kit, the plastic barrel fit into position tighter than the aluminum part, just calling for a little more attention to align it when gluing.

Since I am fawning over the Dragon Models kit right now, I also should mention I liked the Commander's Cupola and Loader's Ring subassemblies - especially the glass inserts for the Cupola. Even though I didn't use the clear plastic "glass" parts as provided in the Dragon kit, I liked the touch.

I didn't mess around with the Cal.50 Machine Gun subassembly much. I added the missing Cocking Handle, made from a little length of styrene rod and drilled out the front sight. If I could have asked Dragon Models to do anything differently would have been to cast the Cradle separate from the Cal.50 Machine Gun body - to increase the detail and make painting easier.

Lastly - and I had to end it somewhere, as you can go on and on and on finding 'something' to add to a Sherman tank model - I set aside the 76mm brass rounds. I know I must have mentioned them a couple of times before now, but I seriously would have traded their weight in more photoetch chain, pins, and assorted goodies to dress up the basic details found on Sherman Tanks. The only way I'd figure I use my brass rounds would be if Dragon Models comes out with a Gen2 US Tank Crew.

I'll be holding on to my 76mm brass rounds in eager anticipation of that day...

In Step Eleven, the model miniature takes shape, and begins to get interesting to me. The construction and detailing process is fun, up to a certain point, but can get tedious. When you can put the subassemblies together to look at the whole shaping up, like I do, I get reenergized.

At this point, the Dragon Models kit looks seriously good. It sounds like I put a lot into it, but looking back it seems all worth it. It strikes a great profile, gorgeous from all angles. Almost as an afterthought, I went in to add the Sand Shield Strips because the other tanks in the unit had them. Not all the 76's did, however. I didn't add them without photos of the other tanks in the unit and some deliberation.

The Turret is a nice subassembly overall, with properly fared in Shell Port and nice sand casting texture. I still haven't seen any model kit texture that looks like the actual sand castings on the real Sherman tanks, but Dragon Models' effort is much better than a smooth surface.

Virtually all of the fixtures you'd expect to see on a Sherman turret are present in the Dragon Models kit, nicely executed too. I rough sanded the lower face of the Turret as it appears more pronounced and sharper-angled than presented in the Dragon Models kit in real life. I endeavored not to go overboard in this exercise, however.

I liked Dragon Models' photoetch attention to the Tow Cable Clamps, but I opted not to use them. I prefer Formations Models parts for this detail, with a Grandt Line Wing Nut (#162) going on the Cal.50 Stowage Clamp on the Turret for good measure.

Did I mention that in the end of the construction phase, I tend to bounce around from subassembly to subassembly? Well, I do - it's fun...

No Antenna Mount is provided in the Dragon Models kit - least not in my examples - so I resorted to Formations Models parts again. I wanted to model three, 3-foot, antenna sections for my radio fit, and the Formations Models part fit the bill. I mimicked the connectors between antenna sections with white glue, and contemplated painting them red, yellow and green - but decided against it as it my be considered over-the-top.

In retrospect, I should have done so anyway.

The Commander's Vane Sight comes from the Aber photoetch set for Sherman Tanks. I made two clamps for the Driver's Foul Weather Hood to mount on the Hull out of lead foil - that is virtually unnoticed in the end - unless you go looking for them. I deleted Dragon Models Part H8 and H3 (Lift Ring) from my Turret. I put the Hull aside to concentrate on the individual track runs.

This was my first time working with the tracks provided in a Dragon Models kit. I have heard horror stories, and success stories. All say they take a good deal of time and patience. In retrospect, I would heartily agree.

The track links were cast nicely, with some subtle wear simulated on the faces of the rubber chevrons. The Dragon Models kit provides two complete sets of tracks, though only one is usable for my purposes. There are two sets of extended end connectors too.

Unlike early examples of RHPS individual track links that suffered from sinkholes on every link, the Dragon Models parts in my kit only sported a single, shallow, ejector pin mark on each end connector to remove. I wish I could brag and tell you this was a simple, quick and easy task to accomplish - but it wasn't. It took time. But I was able to remove each end connector from the sprue trees with a sharp #11 X-Acto Blade, with no need to clean up. That's not too bad.

The real M4A1(76) Sherman used 79-links per track run, and so did I on my miniature. The individual links responded well to Testor's Liquid Cement, allowing me plenty of time to assemble mini-runs of five links at a time and get everything lined up properly. No sophisticated alignment jig was necessary, just care and patience.

When I got three mini-runs ready, I joined them together into a longer run, for wrapping around either an Idler or Sprocket for shaping. I used Tamiya Masking Tape to hold the completed track runs in place on the model as they setup overnight. I intentionally left the end of the runs unconnected, so that I could take the tracks off the kit for separate painting and initial weathering. With some confidence, I left the model alone for a couple of days, actually.

I can't express the joy I felt when I came back to it and peeled the masking tape away. The photos are on Page One. It worked out well, and I don't feel quite so apprehensive about the Dragon Models individual tracks. These proved so easy to put together and mold to the Sherman suspension, that I can't imagine going back to a poly-vinyl run and having to deal with "floating" tracks again.

Spread out over a year, I actually spent some 39 hours putting together Dragon Models' kit. I wouldn't characterize it as a weekend project, but it can be built and pleasingly finished in a reasonable amount of time. I went beyond what most might consider doing in their project, but I had a good time doing so. There is plenty of kit there to keep you busy.